Medlar – A new star is born

Despite being one of the most famous roads in London and one with some of the nicest houses, the Kings Rd is definitely lacking when it comes to decent places to eat out. There are a few noteworthy places but on the whole they’re a bit crap. This is one of the many reasons that the opening of Medlar has been greeted with such praise from both the broadsheet press and the blogs. Nestled at the “less trendy” end of the Kings Rd just past the World’s End, Medlar offers a £38 prix fixe for 3 courses and £25 for lunch. My Dad was complaining to me that this annoyed him because he can’t just pop in for a quick supper but that isn’t really the point of Medlar. One quick glance at the menu and you know you’re in for a delicious, but rich meal. The menu boasts things like calves brain and duck hearts which don’t really shout quick and light.

The decor is simple and the service quietly efficient as we ummed and ahhhed at a menu that reads amazingly, I could quite happily have picked any starter. In the end they very kindly offered us the calf’s brain on the house so that we could all try it. Other starters were: A delicious crab raviolo in a bisque sauce that was silky and rich, a broad been and pea soup that I didn’t try but looked amazing and was met with a lot of praise and the duck heart tart that was probably the best of the starters; a perfectly fried egg with pink hearts and a decadent red wine jus that worked perfectly. The brains were soft and creamy but actually lacking any real flavour so I was glad they were on the house.

Crab raviolo with samphire, brown shrimp, fondue of leeks and bisque sauce

Duck egg tart with red wine sauce, turnip purée, lardons, girolles and sautéed duck heart

Deep fried calf’s brain with sauce gribiche and red wine jus

Chilled broad bean and pea soup with goat’s cheese and summer truffle

Mains carried on in the same manner, high on the calorie counter but absolutely delicious. The steak was cooked perfectly but I found the snails that accompanied it not up to scratch; a little chewy and not enough garlic. However, the triple cooked chips were some of the best I’ve had in a long time. The pork chop came with some lovely crackling but seemed a little dry to me although my companion said he’d loved it. The winning main was the assiette of rabbit that was just done perfectly; tender and full of flavour the way rabbit should be, the photo here doesn’t do it justice.

Assiette of rabbit with pomme anna, carrot pureé, red onion marmalade and lovage

Middle white pork chop and cheek with celeriac puree, black cabbage, crackling and marjoram

Under blade fillet with persillade snails, salad, triple cooked chips and béarnaise

At this point I might have agreed with my Dad, I was stuffed and happy and if I’d been ordering a la carte I don’t think I would’ve had a pudding. Maybe that is the brains behind Medlar, they know you’d be too stuffed to order a pudding so they make you, clever indeed. I’m glad they do though as they were great. My raspberry macaroon was crunchy and refreshing, the chocolate tart was even more richesse but so smooth and tasty that I hardly noticed, while the vanilla custard pot was on another level all together, delicate cream but the raspberry really packed a serious punch this was my favourite of the lot.

Macaroon with English raspberries and lemon curd

Chocolate and almond torte with honeycomb ice cream and caramel sauce

Cherry Sorbet

Vanilla custard pot with blackcurrant compote and langue de chat

The puddings were all washed down with a pot of jasmine tea and everyone left the restaurant a little heavier than when they entered but immensely satisfied.

Medlar is definitely one of my new favourite restaurants and easily one the best of it’s kind in a half mile radius. The locals should rejoice, they don’t know how bad they’ve had it, until now.

Medlar on Urbanspoon


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